Cork manufacturers and their allies are staging a counterattack against the growing encroachment of screw-top closures for premium wines.

Screw tops have been gaining in popularity because they are cheaper than corks and protect the wine better. Corks can react with mold and substances in the wine to produce “cork taint” that makes the wine undrinkable.

Cork advocates, who historically have appealed to tradition, now are trying to argue on environmental grounds. They point out that the bark of the cork oak is a renewable resource, and that if cork continues to decline, owners of Mediterranean cork oak stands will have little incentive to keep the trees.

The Rainforest Alliance recently entered the debate by offering certification to wineries that use cork that meets certain environmental and sustainability standards.

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