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Prosecco Tries to Catch the Champagne Wave
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packexpo
July 24, 2008
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Gianluca Bisol has great expectations for the white sparkling wine his family has been making since 1542 in the Valdobbiadene and Conegliano regions north of Venice.

A 22nd-generation producer, he is hoping that the growing international renown of prosecco will help his wine gain ground over pricier Champagne. Prosecco production has grown to 150 million bottles from 5 million a year in 40 years, mainly driven by demand for exports to Germany and the United States.

Now its makers aim to increase production to 250 million bottles, moving it closer to the world's leading sparkling wine.

France last year produced a record 339 million bottles of Champagne and is in the process of enlarging the officially designated Champagne zone to help meet soaring demand.

"Prosecco is softer, easier to drink than Champagne," Bisol said. "Add the good price/quality ratio, and prosecco could become the leading world bubbly over the next 30 years."

Taking on Champagne will require increasing exports, which amounted to about 16 million bottles last year, a small fraction of the 150 million bottles of Champagne that France exported.

One battleground will be emerging wine markets like China: Exports of Champagne to China soared 30 percent, to 650,000 bottles, last year, a ninefold increase in five years, according to the association of Champagne producers. Prosecco sales totaled fewer than 100,000 bottles.

In prosecco's favor may be the fact that its taste is sweeter than the traditional bruts favored by Champagne buyers: Some Chinese consumers still like to mix their white wine with soft drinks to make it palatable.

But mostly, it needs to find favor with the young, rich clientele of trendy places like i-Ultra Lounge, a Beijing bar that mixes DJ beats and a dance floor with a Champagne collection including vintage Dom Perignon.

"Very few of our guests know about prosecco," said Gary Li, the bar's manager. He said his brand-conscious clients order Moet & Chandon the most because it does a lot of advertising.

"Prosecco definitely has potential," Li said. "Champagne leads the market because it broke into China first and prosecco may need one or two years, but its quality is no less than Champagne's. It just has to attract an audience."

With economies slowing down across the globe, prosecco's affordability may prove to be its advantage. A factor here is that most is made in large industrial containers, while Champagne producers induce fermentation in each bottle, a process that takes longer and is far more costly.

So prosecco retails from as little as euro 1.50, or $2.40, a liter if you fill your own bottles from a jug at a hole-in-the-wall shop in Venice, to euro 25 for Cartizze, the highest quality of hand- picked prosecco grown only on one hill.

In contrast, a popular Champagne like Moet & Chandon sells for euro 30 a bottle in Milan and top Champagne names can fetch hundreds of euros.

In 1969, the prosecco producers of 15 villages in Valdobbiadene obtained the DOC designation--Denominazione di origine controllata, the Italian equivalent of the French AOC, or Appellation d'origine controllee--which certifies the content, production method and regional origin of the wine.

Today, the DOC area cultivates 4,700 hectares, or 11,600 acres, producing 56 million bottles a year from the steep hills of the valley.

But in the plains from nearby Treviso all the way to the border of Slovenia 165 kilometers, or 103 miles, away, a further 5,000 hectares are planted with prosecco grapes, making 100 million bottles a year.

Though prosecco thrived in Valdobbiadene for centuries, it originated in a Slovenian village called Prosecco that became part of Italy in 1918.

On the border between the two countries, Prosecco's population of several hundred are still majority ethnic Slovenian and the street signs are written first in Slovene and then in Italian.

Prosecco growers are pushing to create a new DOC area to regulate all the prosecco producers that are not in Valdobbiadene, which will keep its own specific DOC.

They will then ask the European Union to reserve the name prosecco only for the grape grown in northeastern Italy, so it remains a regional brand and not a generic name.

Italy's newly appointed agriculture minister, Luca Zaia, himself a wine-making specialist from nearby Conegliano, has said he supports the move to protect prosecco's name.

Producers said they hoped Zaia would push for it at a meeting next month of EU agriculture ministers to discuss wine quotas.

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